Alkemia Reviews

I have so many perfumes by Alkemia. Here are some of the latest samples I’ve received.

Stag Moon

Notes: A shape shifting blend of staghorn fern; deerstongue leaves; rum infused maple, birch, and cedar woods; oak moss, autumn musk, clove buds, autumn leaves, deerhide leather, and woodsmoke.

In the bottle: Green…something. I can’t really discern notes.

Wet: Oak moss, something green (leaves?).

Dry down: There is leather sneaking through here, but it simply grounds the leaves, I think. This is still very green but it’s darker than it was. In about fifteen minutes this is a very soft green scent, mostly just the oak moss and soft leather. It’s fuzzy and rather comforting.

Sillage/Longevity: Another medium/low skin scent that starts rather strong but fades rather quickly. It lasts about three hours.

Verdict: This is nice, but not something I think I’d reach for terribly often. It does have a very cozy dry down for a ‘green’ scent, though.



This is one that people rave about. I finally caved and got another sampler pack because I couldn’t hold out anymore.

Foxfire’s notes are: Our special Ghost Fire blend of ambres blanc infused white sugar with sexy swirls of jasmine aldehydes, and night flowering nardo.

In the bottle: A cold sniff gives me lightly floral amber. It’s sweet but not terribly sweet. I don’t really get the jasmine though.

Wet: Same as in the bottle. This is sort of lightly sweet floral amber.

Dry down: As this dries, the floral starts to abate. It becomes sugary amber, more than floral. This stays fairly constant throughout the drydown though. I find this a tad bit one dimensional. It’s nice, definitely, but isn’t interesting enough to my nose to keep me excited about it.

Sillage/Longevity: Low/medium. I can smell this a few inches away from my arm.

Verdict: I actually do not like this at all; it’s sweet and I think the aldehydes are bothering me. The floral is a bit sickly sweet. Too much so for my taste.


Ghost Fire

Notes: A preternaturally beautiful blend of ethereal white ambers.

In the bottle: Light and ambery.

Wet: This amber blend is very white, and almost more gourmand than Foxfire.

Dry down: This dissipates so fast on me. It’s a little deeper and less ethereal  than Foxfire. I smell something like a vanilla base underneath.

Sillage/Longevity: Very light. This is a skin scent on me. It also doesn’t last very long–about twenty minutes on my skin before it’s too light to detect.

Verdict: Eh.…it doesn’t do anything for me.


Madame X

Notes: An homage to unsettling, eccentric, irresistable beauty – bergamot, mandarin, dark violet, Italian Iris, black orchid, Japanese incense, orris root, sueded musk, white sandalwood, Tahitian vanilla, and pale patchouli

Wet: This almost smells like jasmine to me.

Dry down: Very floral. It reminds me of something my mother used to wear; it is probably the black orchid, vanilla, and patchouli combination.

Sillage/Longevity: This is medium to high sillage on my skin; I can smell it when not trying to. It also seems to last a while, amping after about 20 minutes on my skin as it warms.

Verdict: This lasts the longest of the ones I’ve tried but is not my favorite. I’m not the biggest on florals though.


The Decadents

Notes: Rum, vodka, honey, cacao, tobacco, amber, vanilla, opium, musk, and leather.

In the bottle: On first sniff, I just get a lot of musk and something like a honeyed mead.

Wet: On skin this is very harsh. All vodka on my skin at first, with that backdrop of amber and honey.

Dry down: I think this turns into mostly ambery honey. It takes on a metallic vibe after about ten or fifteen minutes.

Sillage/Longevity: Low. This fades very quickly. Within an hour on my skin.

Verdict: Not my favorite. Will probably destash.


The Yellow Book

Notes: A licentious concoction of dry amber, blonde tobacco, naughtily spiced aldehydes, the leather binding of erotic novels, dark chilis provocatively soaked in spiced rum, saffron, white coffee, yuzu, peppered benzoin, and a drop of wild honey.

In the bottle: Leathery books.

Wet: I smell leather, tobacco, and saffron.

Dry down: This takes on a woody type of scent, but I think it’s the coffee and saffron together. I get the vision of an old tome sitting on a wooden table with a tobacco pouch nearby. This is a bit musty in its sweetness.  This transforms quite a bit though. In about twenty minutes, the coffee comes through much stronger, combined with a light tobacco.

Sillage/Longevity: Low/medium; this sticks very close to the skin.

Verdict: This is an odd one. It’s not bad, but ultimately not one that I’d keep. The coffee isn’t quite true coffee to my nose, but a sweet coffeeish tobacco. Not much leather though. Nice, but I probably wouldn’t reach for it.


That’s all for now. Even though it didn’t seem like it from my reviews, I really do like Alkemia as a brand. Some of my favorite perfumes come from this house. And this isn’t to say that these weren’t well blended–they were! Just not my cup of tea, so to speak.

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